FULL BUST VS. SMALL WAIST

Place pins where there is too much fabric.

Mark your pins, with a pen, and draw lines on the sample with a ruler. This way is the easiest way to see how much fabric should be removed from the pattern. 

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NOTE! Your pattern pieces are not necessarily looking similar to mine. Remember to always follow your lines.

1. Work with the two front pieces.

  • Transfer all the lines from the sample to the paper pattern. This is done by measuring on the sample and then marking the lines on the pattern. The new lines are indicated with red, like illustrated below.

  • Now cut the red lines.
  • Throw the shaded part out, see picture below.

2. Now there are five pattern pieces at front. 

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3. There will still be only two pattern pieces at front, therefore the pieces are glued together. (To make this easier, the pattern parts have numbers)

  • Piece 2 and 3 are taped together onto piece 1, like shown on the picture below.

  • Now draw a curved line between piece 2 and 3, this is the dotted line.

 

4. Tape pattern piece 4 and 5 together.

  • Pattern piece (4 and 5) have a sharp shape and this has to be adjusted. 
  • Shape the lines with a new curved line; the dotted line is the new line. 
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5. Now the gathering has to be divided again, a full bust has more gatherings than a smaller bus. This is done the following way.

  • Measure 6-8 cm. From the side seam and make a notch, this is done on both pattern pieces.  

  • Measure 8-12 cm. From CF and make a notch this is done on both pattern pieces.
  • The gatherings are made in-between these 2 notches.

 

NOTE! It is important that you gatherings are placed in the middle right under the bust.

6. Pattern pieces have to be finished.

  • Remmeber grain line.
  • Gatherings line.
  • Name.
  • Front piece has now gotten space for a full bust. 
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