ELSA SCHIAPARELLI

her kommer 2. del om en af min absolut ynglings designere gennem tiden Elsa Schiaparelli.

Hun er en af mine absolutte favoritter. Elsa Schiaparelli blev født I 1890 I en aristokratisk, intellektuel og højt uddannet familie.

Hendes kulturelle baggrund påvirkede hende i de tidlige år og hun var meget fascineret af de mytiske fortællinger om gamle kulturer og religiøse ritualer. Inspireret af de, skrev hun en samling af meget seksuelle digte, hvilke førte til at hendes konservative forældre sendte hende til et kloster i Schweitz. Kort efter forkod hun klosteret efter en sultestrejke.

I 1922 flyttede hun til Paris. Der mødte hun en af den tids største designere, Poul Poiret. Han ville gerne have at hun gik i hans tøj og lånte hende derfor nogle kjoler. Dette blev vendepunktet for hende.

I midten af 1920erne startede hun som freelance designer. Og hun designede sit første stykke tøj. En håndstrikket sweater som hurtigt blev kaldt et mesterværk af Vouge. Kort efter var det en bestseller i USA. Et par år efter tog hendes virksomhed fart og hun åbnede et atelier og salon i Paris. Hendes innovative tilgang til materialer, tilskæring og detaljer var ikke set før. Dette resulteret i at hendes designs blev flittigt kopieret af andre.

Hun var eminent til at omgive sig med de bedste kunstnere og håndværkere. Hun lavede mange samarbejder med kunstnere som var med til at underbygge hendes univers. Nogle af de mest kendte var Salvador Dali og Jean Cocteau.

Hun forsatte sit arbejde med mode indtil 1954, og designede både parfumer, solbriller, hatte, sportstøj, svømmetøj og couture. Hun døde i 1973

En af de ting jeg synes er mest fantastisk er det at hendes univers er så legende. Det at hendes tøj både er sjovt, grotesks og smukt på samme tid gør det fantastisk at se på. Hun var meget influeret af den dadaistiske og surrealistiske kunst og det formåede hun at overføre i sit avantgarde tøj. Efter min mening er hendes tøj kunst.

I 2012 genåbnede huset i Paris

part two in the series of my all time favorite designers is about  Elsa Schiaparelli.

This designer is one of my absolute favorites. Elsa Schiaparelli was born in 1890 in an aristocratic, intellectual and well-educated family.

Her cultural background influenced her in the early years and she was very fascinated by the lore of ancient cultures and religious rituals. Inspired of that, she wrote a collection of overtly sensual poems. Her conservative parent has decided to send her to a convent in Switzerland – short after she left the convent, after a hunger strike.

In 1922 she moved to Paris. She met the designer Paul Poiret, at that time he was the greatest couturier. He wanted Else to wear his clothes and lend her some pieces, that was the turning point for her

In the mid-1920s she started worked as a freelance designer and she made her first Elsa Schiaparelli product. A hand knitted sweater, soon it was named as a masterpiece by Vogue and became a top seller in the USA. A couple of years later her business really took off and she open an ateliers and salon in Paris. Her innovate take on how to use materials, cuts and details in a different way was not seen before. That meant that many of her creations was copied by others.

She always surrounded herself with the best artists, designers and craftsmen. And she was brilliant to make collaborations that emphasize her universe – some of her most famous collaborations is with Salvador Dali and Jean Cocteau.

She continued her work with fashion until 1954, and designed both perfumes, sunglasses, hats, sportswear, swimwear and couture. She died in 1973.

The thing I love the most with Elsa Schiaparelli is the playfulness. The fact that her clothes somehow is funny, grotesque and beautiful at the same time makes it so interesting to look at. She was so influenced by Dadaistic and surrealistic art and she managed to transfer that into her avant-garde clothes. In my opinion, her clothes was art.

In 2012 the Schiaparelli house reopened in Paris

accessories from the collaboration with Salvador Dali (all pictures from pinterest)

The lobster dress, also Salvador Dali

The collaboration with Jean Cocteau.