SEWING DIRECTION NO.4 LONDON

VERSION 3

This jacket is inspired by the 60’s swagger jackets. The jacket is short, has a collar that can be tied and pockets at front. The sleeves are three quarter length and have a lining.

Find your size:

The picture shows a size medium. Determine your size by measuring your chest and compare the measurement to the chart on your pattern.

Fabric choice:

This version is made of classic wool for jackets but thinner material can be used.

You will need:

  • Fabric width 140 cm
    • XS-S-M   2,5 mtr.
    • L-XL         3,25 mtr.
  • Fabric width 110 cm
    • XS-S-M-L-XL   3,5 mtr.
  • Lining 1,25 mtr.
  • Thread.
  • Interfacing (Fusing) 1 mtr.
  • 4 buttons
  • Bias binding 3 mtr. see here how to make your own

Adjustments:

For this pattern, it is not necessary to make a muslin, because of the width and the way the sleeves are constructed.

Cutting fabric:

Each pattern piece is marked with a capital letter. On the cutting layout plan, you’ll find the same capital letters on your pattern, then you can easily see which pattern pieces to use for the version you’ve chosen.

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NB! Pattern pieces C & I cut x 4

NB! Pattern pieces H & C are also to be cut in fusing.

Sewing:

NB! All pattern parts are incl. 1 CM (3/8 INCH) Seam allowance, unless anything else is noted. If more seam allowance is desired you can do so by adding.

1.  Cut out all the pieces.

2.  Press interfacing on the pocket flaps and on two of the front pieces.

3.   Overlock/zigzag all raw edges.

Sew pocket:

4.  Sew and turn the pocket flaps.

5.  Place the pocket flap between the notches and a pocket bag on top. Sew between the notches. 

6.  Cut notches where the stitching ends and starts.

7.  Understitch the pocket bag

8.  Place another pocket bag on top and sew the pocket bags together.

9.  Overlock/zig zag the pocket bag.

Sew jacket:

10.  Sew the CF piece together with the side front piece, right sides together

11. Sew the CB piece together with the side back piece, right sides together, press seam open.

12.  Sew front and back sleeve together in the long seam and inner seam, right sides together, press seam open.

13.  Do the same on sleeve lining, cut 1 cm of the bottom edge.

14.  Sew the facing on to the front piece from notch to bottom, right sides together. Turn, press and cut a small notch at CF so the seam allowance in neck can be turned out.

15.  Sew the side seam together, right sides together, press seam open.

16.  Sew the shoulder seam together, right sides together. Press seam open.

17.  Sew together fabric and lining in the bottom of sleeve, right sides together. Turn lining in to the fabric sleeve.

18.  Fold fabric sleeve 4 cm up for hem and attach by sewing an invisible stitch by hand.

19.  Sew sleeve into the armhole, all layers together. NB! There is a front and a back sleeve.

20.  Overlock/zig zag the armhole all layers together.

NB! Now you have a jacket and are ready to sew the collar. 

Sew collar:

21.  Sew the two collar pieces together, right sides together, Stop at the first notch. Turn and press.

22.    Place the lower part of the collar in the neckline, right sides together. The notches have to fit at shoulder seam and CF. Facing has to be sewn into the seam allowance. 

23.    Press the seam allowance inside the collar

24.    Press the seam allowance of the upper collar, inside the collar and sew.

25.    Hem the jacket with a bias band.