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SEWING DIRECTION NO.4 LONDON

VERSION 1

This coat is inspired of the 60s swing coat. The coat is long with lots of width. It has a collar, patch pockets at front, a big button for closing, and all edges are finished with piping.

Find your size:

The picture shows a size medium. Determine your size by measuring your chest and compare the measurement to the chart on your pattern or here

Fabric choice:

This version is made of heavy wool. Felted wool or a Bouclé can also be used.  For the lining polyester is used. Because of the width, the fabric has to be 130-140 cm wide. 

You will need:

  •  Fabric width 140 cm
    • XS-S-M   3,5 mtr.
    • L-XL         4,25 mtr.
  • Lining, same amount as fabric.
  • Thread.
  • Interfacing (Fusing) 25 cm.
  • 1 big Button: see here how to make your own
  • 2 snaps
  • 7 mtr. knitted fold-over trim for the edges. You can leave out the trim and turn sew all edges if desired.

Adjustments:

For this pattern, it is not necessary to make a muslin, because of the width and the way the sleeves are constructed.

Cutting fabric:

The pattern pieces are labeled with capital letters (A, B, C etc.) These letters are referred to in the cutting diagram below; to enable you to see which pattern pieces you will need for the version you are making.

NOTE! All pieces are cut in lining except pattern piece K & G.  

NOTE! Pattern piece K is also cut in fusing.

Sewing: 

NOTE! All pattern parts are incl. 1 CM (3/8 INCH) Seam allowance, unless anything else is noted. If more seam allowance is desired you can do so by adding.

1.   Cut out all pieces in fabric, lining and interfacing

2.  Overlock/zigzag all raw edges, if the fabric is wool felt this is not necessary.

3.  Overlock/zig zag all raw edges on lining.

4.  Press Interfacing on to one of the collar pieces.

Sew the shell:

5.  Sew the CF piece together with the side front piece, right sides together, press seam open.

6.  Sew the CB piece together with the side back piece, right sides together, press seam open.

7.  Sew front and back sleeve together in the long seam,right sides together, press seam open. 

8.  Sew the shoulder seam together, right sides together.

9.  Sew in the sleeve, pin the sleeve head into the sleeve opening. Be aware of the back and front sleeve (back sleeve has two notches).

10.  Sew the side seam. All the way from the sleeve opening to the bottom of the coat.

11.  Sew the lining the same way as the shell.

12.  Make the hem on the lining by folding 1 cm x ,5 cm and make a top stitch. The easiest way is to press lightly and place a few pins to keep the hemline in place. 

Sew pockets:

13.  Place main fabric and lining pocket piece with wrong sides together.

14.  Start to sew the binding on to the pocket opening. Do it with a 3-step zig zag. Write the settings on your machine down. You are going to use them later. See video

15.  Sew the binding onto the curved part of the pocket, leave 3 cm of binding in both ends.

16.  Place the pocket along the side seam on the coat. Sew the pocket on with a 3-step zig zag all the way around. Leave 15 cm open, for the pocket opening. 

Sew collor:

17.  Place the two collar pieces, right sides together. Sew together and leave it open in the bottom. Turn and press nicely

18.  Place the collar at neck line, fitted at notches. Pin the collar in a “sandwich” with the fabric and the lining, and sew all the way from front edge to front edge. See video

19.  Make a top stitch trough all layers, collar, lining and fabric, to hold it together.

20.  Attach the lining with a machine baste stitch along the CF line and sleeve bottom. 

21.  Sew on the "fold over trim" in sleeves bottom and on the raw front and bottom edges. Use the same technique as on the pockets.

22.  Hand sew the two snaps for closing

23.  Place the button. See tips and tricks here