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SEWING DIRECTION NO.4 LONDON

VERSION 2

This coat is inspired by the 1940’s new look. The coat has hip length and a belt that accentuates the waist, and pockets in the side seam. 

Find your size:

The picture shows a size medium. Determine your size by measuring your chest and compare the measurement to the chart on your pattern.

Fabric choice:

This version is made of felted wool. Heavy wool or a Bouclé can also be used.  If facings are chosen to be made, any type of fabric can be used. See online sewing direction on how to make facings.

You will need:

  • Fabric width 140 cm
    • XS-S-M   2,5 mtr.
    • L-XL  3,25 mtr.
  • Fabric width 110 cm
    • XS-S-M-L-XL 3,5 mtr.
  • Thread.
  • Interfacing (Fusing) 15 cm – ( 50 cm. If you want to make hemfacing)

Adjustments:

For this pattern, it is not necessary to make a muslin, because of the width and the way the sleeves are constructed.

Cutting fabric:

Each pattern piece is marked with a capital letter. On the cutting layout plan, you’ll find the same capital letters on your pattern, then you can easily see which pattern pieces to use for the version you’ve chosen.

NB! Pattern pieces C & I cut x 4.

NB! Pattern pieces L is also to be cut in interfacing.

Sewing:

NOTE! All pattern parts are incl. 1 CM (3/8 INCH) Seam allowance, unless anything else is noted. If more seam allowance is desired you can do so by adding.

1.    Cut out all the pieces.

2.    Overlock/zigzag all raw edges, if the fabric is wool felt this is not necessary.

3.    Press interfacing on the neck facing.

Sew jacket:

4.    Sew the CF piece together with the side front piece, right sides together, press seam open.

5.    Sew the CB piece together with the side back piece, right sides together, press seam open.

6.    Sew front and back sleeve together in the long seam, right sides together, press seam open. 

7.    Sew the shoulder seam together, right sides together.

8.    Sew the neck facing together with the front facing, right sides together, press seam open.

9.    Place the facing on the jacket and sew all the way around, right sides together.

10.    Understitch the hem facing and clip notches to the seam allowances. Turn and press

11.    Attach the facing with a baste stitch along the CF line and the shoulder seam. 

Sew pocket:

12.    Place a pocket bag onto the jacket and sew between notches approx. 12 cm

13.    Cut notches where the stitching ends and starts.

14.    Understitch the pocket bag

15.    Place another pocket bag on top and sew the pocket bags together.

16.   Overlock/zig zag the pocket bags all layers together

NB! Now you have a jacket with open side seams and two sleeves.

17.    Sew the side seam, right sides together. NB! Be careful not to sew the pocket opening together

18.    Sew in the sleeve. NOTE! There is a back and front sleeve.

19.   Sew the hemline on both sleeve and bottom. This can be done with raw edges or facing.

20.   When raw edges are chosen, place a topstitch 0,5 cm, from the edge in both sleeve and bottom

21.    Sew and turn the belt.

24.    Sew belt loops at the side seam. See tips and tricks