Sewing direction NO. 11 MALMØ 

version 1 

Find your size:

on the picture you see a size 40/12/8. Compare your measurement to the size chart on your pattern sheet.

Fabric:

You can use any kind of woven fabric for this pattern. The final look of the garment will depend on the type of fabric you choose, though. None of the versions are suitable for jersey fabrics. However you can use a light stretch fabric as well.

You will need:

  • Fabric 110 cm wide
    • Size 34-40/UK 6-12/US 2-8 1.2 mtr.
    • Size EU 42-48/UK 14-20/US 10-16 1.5 mtr.
  • Fabric 140 cm wide
    • Size 34-40/UK 6-12/US 2-8  1 mtr.
    • Size EU 42-48/UK 14-20/US 10-16 1.2 mtr.
  • Thread
  • 60 cm interfacing (that works with your fabric)
  • Invisible zipper, 25 cm long
  • 1 large button – max diameter 3 cm

Fitting:

I recommend that you always make a muslin before you cut the fashion fabric, to make sure your finished garment will fit you perfectly. Find the fitting guide here.

Cutting:

Each pattern piece is marked with a capital letter. On the cutting layout plan, you’ll find the same capital letters so that you can easily see which pattern pieces to use for the
version you’ve chosen.

NB! The dotted stroke on pattern piece E is wrong. Please follow the written size indication. Alternatively, you can print a new pattern piece. 

Sewing:

All extra help ad guides is marked with a purple link, just click!

NB! The pattern has 1 cm seam allowances included, unless otherwise noted.

1.    Begin by cutting all your pieces according to the cutting layout plan.

2.    Press interfacing to all facing pieces.

 

NB! Sew before overlocking for the best finish.

 

 

Sew the facings:

 

3.    Sew the facing shoulder seams.

4.    Sew the side seams of both the neckline facing and the hem facing.

5.    Sew the side-front seams of the hem facing, from the top to the notch.

6.    press all seams open.

7.    Sew the darts on the back piece and press them towards centre-back.

8.    Join the yoke pieces, right sides together, at the curved part from notch to notch. Clip notches to the seam allowances, and turn and press.

 

NB! Overlock or zigzag the seam allowances of each piece separately.

Or bind the seam allowances with bias tape. 

 

9.    Finish the seam allowances of the front piece and of the long side of the side-front pieces. Stop at the notch of the curved side.

10. Finish the seam allowances of the back piece sides.

11. Finish the seam allowances of the hem of the neck facing.

12. Finish the seam allowances of the yoke side seams.

Sew the top

13. Sew the front piece to the side-front pieces.

14. Join the yoke and the front piece. Take care not to catch the design detail in the seam. Press the seam allowances upwards.

15. Sew the zipper to the left side seam. 

16. Sew the remaining part of the left side seam and the entire right side seam. Press the seam allowances open.

17. Sew the shoulder seams, right sides together.

Sew the facings to the top

18. Place the neckline facing on the neckline, right sides together, and sew along the neckline.

19. Understitch to keep the facing in place.

20. Clip notches to the seam allowances. Turn and press the facing in place.

21.  Sew the armscyes right sides together.

22. Understitch the facing seam allowance as far up as you can reach. Clip notches to the seam allowances. Turn and press the facing in place.Hand stitch the facing to the yoke seam allowance using a catch stitch. 

23. Place the hem facing on the hem of the top, right sides together.

24. Begin sewing at the centre front piece, from where the vent begins, to where it ends at the other side. Du no include the seam allowance in the seam and make sure to begin the stitching exactly where the side-front seam ends.

25. Sew the rest of the hem using the same method.

26. Clip notches to the seam allowances. Turn and press the vents.

27. Understitch the hem facing seam allowance as close to the curves as you can.

28. Finish the seam allowances of the upper edge of the hem facing.

29.  Hand stitch the hem facing in place using a catch stitch (see how-to online).  

Sew the decorative button in place

30. Finish by sewing the button in place. Do not sew a buttonhole. Just place the button on the top and sew it in place through both layers.