Sewing direction No.1 Dragør

Version 1

This dress is inspired by dresses seen in 1950s. This model is tight fitted at the top, has lots of width in the skirt and the shoulder straps are placed on the edge of the shoulder

Find your size:

The picture shows a size 40/12/8. Determine your size by measuring your chest and waist and compare the measurements to the chart on your pattern. 

Fabric choice:

This model is made in cotton. The top part is required a lining, use a cotton voile or an ordinary acetate lining. 

You will need:

  • Fabric
    • width 140 cm
      • EU 34-48/ UK 6-20 /US 2-16 1,6Mtr.
    • width 110 cm
      • EU 34-48/ UK 6-20/ US 2-16 2,6 Mtr.
  • Zipper 30 cm
  • Lining 60 cm all sizes
  • Thread
  • 3,5 mtr. lace hemline finish. See how to

Adjustments:

To get the best result, I recommend you always sew a sample, before cutting in the desired fabric. For this version you can settle with sewing a sample of the top part. Look for the adjustments guide here.

Cutting fabric:

The pattern pieces are labeled with capital letters (A, B, C etc.)These letters are referred to in the cutting diagram below; to enable you to see which pattern pieces you need for the version you are making. 

Note! Pattern pieces A, B and C are also cut in lining

 

Sewing direction:

NOTE! All pattern parts are incl. 1 CM (3/8 INCH) Seam allowance, unless anything else is noted. If more seam allowance is desired you can do so by adding. 

1. Cut all the pieces.

Sew the top:

2. Make gathering on the top part in between the notches. The top part needs to match the waist part according to the notches. Gatherings are made on both fabric and lining separately.

3. Sew the top and waste part together, the right side of fabric facing each other. This is performed on both fabric and lining separately.

4. Sew the front neckline, by placing fabric and lining, right side of fabric facing each other

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5. Sew the darts on the back, on both fabric and lining separately.

6. Sew the back neckline, by placing fabric and lining, right side facing each other.

7. Flip lining over, and make a topstitch on lining to keep seam allowance in place; See video

8. Sew the armhole at front, by placing fabric and lining, right side facing each other.

9. Sew the armhole at back, by placing fabric and lining, right side facing each other.

10. Flip lining over in the armhole and make topstitch on lining on both back and front side. Stitch as far up as you can reach. As done in neckline.

11. Prepare for pressing the neckline and armhole, by making small cuts in the seam allowance in both neckline and armhole

12. Press the neckline and armhole on both back and front

13. Overlock/zig-zag shoulder and side seam separately.

14. Sew shoulder seam, right side facing each other, press seam open.

15. Sew the right side seam, right side facing each other, press seam open

ENG 4V1.png

Sew the skirt part together:

16. Overlock/zig-zag all side seam separately

17. Sew the right side seam, right side facing each other, press seam open.

18.  Make the pleats on the bottom part, according to the notches and arrows on the pattern part, and adjust if necessary. 

19. Sew top and skirt part together in waste line, right side facing each other.

20. Overlock/zig zag wasteline togheter. (all seams in one)

NOTE! Now you have a dress that is sewn together with the left side seam open. 

21. You are ready to sew in the zipper, while you will sew the left side seam. The zipper starts 5 cm below the armhole. See a video

22. Overlock/zig zag hemline.

23. Press hemline with 4 cm. of seam allowance.

24. Sew hemline all the way around. If desired classy hemline find inspiration here.