SEWING DIRECTIONS No. 6 KØBENHAVN VERSION 2

This dress is inspired from the late 1950s, and has a deep back with a high collar at front.

Find your size:

The picture shows a size 40/12/8. Determine your size by measuring your chest, waist and hip measurement and compare the measurement to the chart on your pattern. If you are two different sizes on top and bottom, trace the two sizes, and make an alteration in the waistline. You can find the fitting guide here

Material choice:

You can use any kind of woven fabric for this pattern. The final look of the garment will depend on the type of fabric you choose, though. None of the versions are suitable for jersey fabrics.

You need:

  •  Fabric
    • width 140 cm
      • EU 34-48/UK 6-20/US 2-16  2 Mtr.
    • width 110 cm
      • EU 34-48/UK 6-20/US 2-16  2,7 Mtr.
  • Lining 75 cm.
  • Thread.
  • 1 Invisible zipper. 35 cm.
  • 50 cm interfacing (fusing)

Fitting and adjustments:

I recommend that you always make a muslin before you cut the fashion fabric, to make sure your finished dress will fit you perfectly. Find the fitting guide  here

Cutting fabric:

Each pattern piece is marked with a capital letter. On the cutting layout plan, you’ll find the same capital letters on your pattern, then you can easily see which pattern pieces to use for the version you’ve chosen..

KLIPPE VEJLEDNING V2.png

NB! Pattern piece I, J & K are also to be cut in lining.

NB! Pattern piece F, G, H & L are also to be cut in fusing.

 

Sewing directions:

NB! All pattern parts are incl. 1 CM (3/8 INCH) Seam allowance, unless anything else is noted. If more seam allowance is desired you can do so by adding. 

1.    Cut out all pieces in fabric, lining and interfacing

2.    Press interfacing on pieces H, F & G.

3.    Overlock/zig-zag all side seams and CB seam of the skirt part separately.

4.    Overlock/zig-zag all edges on hem facing and small slit part H,G,F.

Sew the skirt:

5.    Sew the darts on the back, right sides together

6.    Sew CB seam, right sides together. Sew from lower notch up to 5 cm before upper notch.

7.    On front, fold all pleats in the direction of the arrows. They are open towards the sides. Machine baste over the pleats to keep them in place.

8.    Sew the side seams, right sides together

9.    Sew the side seams on hem facing, right sides together

 

10.    Sew the vent part on the hem facing, right sides together

11.    Sew the two vent parts together from notch to the top, right sides together

12.    Sew the hem facing onto the skirt, right sides together. Sew all the way around from CB to CB. Do not sew the slit yet.

 

13.    Understitch the hem facing and clip notches to the seam allowances*

14.    Flip the hem facing up again, now the right side of both facing and skirt is facing each other.

15.    Sew the vent from bottom and up, to where the CB seam ends. Do it on both sides.*

16.    Turn hem facing inside the skirt and press nicely.

17.    Hem the skirt , by making a stitch all way round.

NB! Now you have a skirt part.

Sew the bodice

18.    Sew the collar, right sides together.

19.    Understitch the collar and clip notches to the seam allowances, turn around and press the collar nicely*.

20.    Sew the darts on the back part, right sides together.

21.    Sew CF piece and front-side piece together, right sides together.

Tips and tricks: The easiest way to sew this seam is to start from the bottom and then turn the front-side piece when you sew. I never pin a seam that has two pattern pieces with different curves, you get a more even seam when you do not use pins.

22.    Sew shoulder seam, right sides together.

23.    Repeat for lining.

24.    Place the collar on the right side of the fabric, the collar end 1 cm before CB

 

25.    Sew neckline, by placing the lining on the main fabric, right sides together.

26.    Understitch the lining and clip notches to the seam allowances, turn around and press the neckline nicely*.

27.    Sew the armscye, right sides together.

28.    Understitch the lining in the armscye as far up you can get. Clip notches to the seam allowances, turn around and press the armscye nicely*.

29.    Overlock/zig-zag lining and main fabric together in the side seams and CB seam.

30.    Sew the side seam, right sides together.

31.    Sew the bodice with the skirt part, right sides together.

32.    Overlock/zig zag waste line together, through all layers. Press seam allowance upwards.

33.    Now you are ready to sew in the invisible zipper at CB. Stop the zipper at the notch.*

34.    Fold the ends of the zipper down and hide them in the seam allowance. Sew with a hand stitch