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Sewing direction No. 5 Århus VERSION 1

The early 40s inspire this dress. The high neckline, gives the dress the illusion of having a small collar. The dress has a short sleeve and the skirt cut on bias.

Find your size:

The picture shows a size 40/12/8. Determine your size by measuring your waist and chest and compare the measurement to the chart on your pattern. 

Fabric choice:

This version is made of heavy cotton. Any kind of similar fabric with some heaviness can be used. 

You will need:

  • Fabric 
    • width 130/140 cm
      • EU 34-40/UK 6-12/US 2-8     2,7 mtr.
      • EU 42-48/UK 14-20/US 10-16     3,3 mtr.
    • width 110 cm
      • EU 34-40/UK 6-12/US 2-8     4 mtr.
      • EU 42-48/UK 14-20/US 10-16     5 mtr.
  • Linning 25 cm.
  • Thread.
  • 1 zipper 30 cm.
  • Small piece of fusing.

Adjustments:

To get the best result, I recommend you always sew a sample, before cutting in the desired fabric. For this version you can settle with sewing a sample of the top part. Look for the adjustments guide here.

Cutting fabric:

The pattern pieces are labeled with capital letters (A, B, C etc.)These letters are referred to in the cutting diagram below; to enable you to see which pattern pieces you need for the version you are making. 

NOTE! Pattern piece E, is mirrored on a piece of paper, so it is not placed on fold when cutting.

NOTE! Pattern piece C is also cut in lining. Pattern piece D is cut x4. 

 

Sewing directions: 

NOTE! All pattern parts are incl. 1 CM (3/8 INCH) Seam allowance, unless anything else is noted. If more seam allowance is desired you can do so by adding. 

1. Cut all the pieces.

2. Cut 2 pieces of fusing 3 by 30 cm.

3. Press fusing on the left side seam at the top, on the wrong side of the fabric, on both front and back part. This is done to make it easier when sewing the zipper.

4. Overlock/zig zag all sides of the skirt parts.

5. Overlock/zig zag CF and side seam of the top.

Sew the skirt part together:

6. Sew the skirt together in the long seams, right side of fabric facing each other. Sew accordingly to notches.

7. Make a front and back piece.

8. Sew front and back piece together in one side, right side of fabric facing each other.

9. Sew the other side together 20 cm from bottom and up, This will be your left side.

10. Hem the skirt part, by making a stitch all way round. Fold 0,5 cm and press, fold once again0,5 cm and press again.

11. Sew along the folded edge.

NOTE! Now you have a skirt part, it is time to sew the top

Sew the top:

12. Sew the darts on the back, right side of fabric facing each other.

13. Sew the neck seam together, right side facing each other.

14. Sew neckline, by placing front and back piece in the neck, right side facing each other. See video

15. Make a small cut in the front piece corner, NOT back piece, now turn the fabric, and sew the shoulder 

16. Sew the shoulder seams, right side facing each other.

17. Fold a pleat on left and right front piece. Fold the direction the arrow is pointing, the pleats are facing down.

18. Place the two folded front pieces on top of each other, right side facing each other. Pin them together, be very precise so the pleats fit on top of each other.

19. Sew the CF line together from the bottom and up to where the pleats stop.

20. Overlock/zig zag neck/shoulder seam, through all layers.

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21. Hand stitch the collar to the neckline, by folding the collar in to the top. Note! Only stitch in the neckline.

22. Sew skirt and top part. Let it be open in the left side seam.

23. Overlock/zig zag wasteline togheter, through all layers.

24. Now you are ready to sew the zipper. The zipper starts 4 cm below the armhole. See video

25. Sew the rest of the side seam.

Sew the sleeves:

26. Place sleeve lining on right side of main fabric. Sew the sleeve together in bottom line.

27. Flip the lining over, and make a topstitch on lining to keep seam allowance in place; See video

28. Flip the lining back and press the bottom line of sleeve. 

 

 

29. Sew in the sleeves, by pinning the sleeves into the armhole. Start at the shoulder point back and then sew all the way around. The end of the sleeve is overlapping each other according to the notches. 

30. Overlock/zig zag the sleeves.