Alteration for a small bust

I use two types of alterations for the smaller bust.

Alteration 1 is for those who used to have an average bust but due to breastfeeding now has a flatter bust.

Alteration 2 is for those who have smaller frames than average and not just a small bust.

Alteration 1

1.       Find the bust point:

  • Find the centre of the bust dart and the waist dart and elongate the centre line of each. Where the two lines meet, is where the bust point is. (If your pattern has pleats at the waist, draw the line in the centre of the pleat instead).
  • Draw a line from the armscye notch to the bust point.
  • Cut the red lines.

2       Make the alteration up to 1.2 cm by overlapping the pattern pieces as explained below:

  • Place pattern piece (b) so that it fits the armscye. Then turn it so it overlaps pattern piece (a).
  • Place pattern piece ( c ) so that it fits the hem line. Turn it so it overlaps pattern piece (a).

3.       Redraw the darts:

  • Now redraw the darts. The point where the old dart legs meet is the bottom of your new dart.

Alteration 2

1.       Find the bust point:

  • Find the centre of the bust dart and the waist dart and elongate the centre line of each. Where the two lines meet, is where the bust point is. (If your pattern has pleats at the waist, draw the line in the centre of the pleat instead).
  • Draw a line from the armscye notch to the bust point.
  • Cut the red lines.

2.       Make the alteration up to 2 cm (or as much as you can overlap until the dart legs at the side seam overlap each other) by overlapping the pattern pieces as explained below:

  • Place pattern piece (b) so that it fits the armscye. Now turn it so it overlaps pattern piece (a).
  • Move pattern piece ( c) up so that the bust point of pattern piece (b) and (c) align.

 

3.       Adjust the waist:

  • Cut where the waist dart meets the old cutting line and move the cut piece up.
  • Redraw the waist dart.